Mustard Yellow Poncho Hand Knit Crochet Shawl Stole Wrap

This mustard yellow poncho is perfect for cold days, for everyday use for every occasion. Available in my Etsy shop

Blended Green Knit Wool Shawl

This blended green hand knit wool shawl is perfect for cold days, for everyday use for every occasion. Available in my Etsy shop

Monday Moodboard - Sorrow

Wish to start a new week with happiness but eastern Turkey was shaken by a 7.2 magnitude earthquake yesterday...It was a very strong damaging earthquake:(( my heart goes out everyone affected, all my thoughts and prayers are with them...

1) İragrant

2) Febystan

3) Shebbodesign

4) Veronicavartic

For more Monday Mood Boards by EST members please Staroftheeast blog!

Free Knit Pattern Slippers Socks

This slippers socks are superb:) Thanks Kristin Nicholas for this pattern.

SIZE S[M, L] To fit Woman's Small/Medium [Woman's Medium/Large, Men's Medium]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Foot Circumference: 8[8.75, 9.5] inches Leg Circumference: 9.25[10, 11] inches, unstretched Leg Length: 10.5 inches

MATERIALS Yarn Nashua Handknits Julia [50% wool, 25% alpaca, 25% mohair; 93yd/85m per 50g skein]  [A] #2624 Fuchsia; 1 skein  [B] #3961 Lady's Mantle; 1 skein  [C] #6085 Geranium; 2 skeins  [D] #1054 Sunflower; 1 skein  [E] #4726 Maine Coast Blue; 1 skein Recommended needle size [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]   1 set US #6/4 mm double-point needles  1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles Tools  Yarn needle  Safety pin or split ring marker  1 pair suede slipper bottoms, to fit wearer  1 crochet hook, approx. size US #8/H / 5mm  Pompom maker, approx. diameter 2.25 inches (optional)

GAUGE 20 sts/24 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette st using smaller needles 19 sts = 4 inches in Ridge pattern using larger needles

PATTERN NOTES

The leg of this sock is worked using a larger needle, for a slouchy fit. When slipping sts, slip st purlwise with yarn held to WS of work. skp: Sl 1 knitwise with yarn held to back of work, k1, pass slipped st over st just knit. 1 st decreased. Ridge: K 1 round. P 2 rounds. DIRECTIONS LEG Using larger needles and A, CO 44[48, 52] sts. K 1 row, then divide sts between 3 needles and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. K 6 rounds. Place safety pin or split ring marker in work to indicate beginning of round. Note: Directions for Ridge can be found in Pattern Notes [above]. When beginning with a new color, break the old color and join the new color, leaving tails of each to be woven in later. Work one Ridge using B, then one Ridge using C. Sizes S, L Only: Next Round: Using D, [k9[-, 11], k2tog] four times. 40[-, 48] sts. All Sizes: K 2[3, 2] rounds using D. Next Round: [K1, yo, k2tog, k1] to end. This round forms eyelets for crocheted cord. K 2[3, 2] rounds. Sizes S, L Only: Next Round: Using D, [k10[-, 12], m1] four times. 44[-, 52] sts. All Sizes: Work one Ridge each in colors E, A and B. K 15 rounds using E. Note: As written, leg is 10.5 inches long to top of heel. If you wish to lengthen or shorten leg by 0.5 inch or less, work more or fewer rounds in this section. If you wish to change length by more than 0.5 inch, add or omit Ridges in the following section. Note that if you add Ridges, you may require more yarn. Work nine more ridges, in the following color sequence: D, C, B, A, E, D, A, B, E. FOOT Switching to smaller needles, k 3 rounds using C. Foot will be worked entirely using C. Next Round: [K9[10, 11], k2tog] four times. 40[44, 48] sts. K 2 rounds.HEEL FLAP K first 20[22, 24] sts of next round onto one needle. Heel flap will be worked back and forth over these sts; remaining sts are held on other needles for instep. Row 1 [WS]: K1, p to last st, k1. Row 2 [RS]: K2, [sl 1, k1] to end. Repeat these 2 rows until flap measures 2[2.25, 2.5] inches, ending with a RS row. TURN HEEL Row 1 [WS]: P12[13, 14], p2tog, p1. turn work. Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, k5, skp, k1. Turn work. Row 3 [WS]: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1. Turn work. Row 4 [RS]: Sl 1, k7, skp, k1. Turn work. Row 5 [WS]: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1. Turn work. Row 6 [RS]: Sl 1, k9, skp, k1. Turn work. Row 7 [WS]: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, p0[1, 1]. Turn work. Sizes S, M Only: Row 8 [RS]: Sl 1, k10[11, -], skp, k0[1, -]. 12[14, -] sts remain. Proceed to Gusset. Size L Only: Row 8 [RS]: Sl 1, k11, skp, k1. Turn work. Row 9 [WS]: Sl 1, p12, p2tog. Turn work. Row 10 [RS]: Sl 1, k12, skp. 14 sts remain. Proceed to Gusset. GUSSET Place all sts of instep on one needle. Using needle holding heel flap sts (Needle 1),  pick up and k 12[13, 14] sts along adjacent edge of heel flap. Using a second needle (Needle 2), k all sts of instep. Using third needle (Needle 3), pick up and k 12[13, 14] sts along remaining edge of heel flap, then k first 6[7, 7] sts of heel flap. This point (center of heel) will now be beginning of round; place safety pin or split ring marker in work if desired. 56[62, 66] sts: 18[20, 21] sts each on Needles 1 and 3, 20[22, 24] sts on Needle 2.Gusset Decrease Round: K to last 3 sts of Needle 1, k2tog, k1; k all sts of Needle 2; k1, skp, k to end of Needle 3. K 1 round. Repeat these 2 rounds 7[8, 8] times more. 40[44, 48] sts: 10[11, 12] sts each on Needles 1 and 3, 20[22, 24] sts on Needle 2. FOOT Work in stockinette st until foot measures 2 inches less than desired length to end of toe. TOE Toe Decrease Round: K to last 3 sts of Needle 1, k2tog, k1; k1, skp, k to last 3 sts of Needle 2, k2tog, k1; k1, skp, k to end of Needle 3. K 1 round. Repeat these 2 rounds five times more, then work Toe Decrease Round once more. 12[16, 20] sts. K to end of Needle 1, then place all sts from Needle 3 onto Needle 1. 6[8, 10] sts each on Needles 1 and 2. Graft sts on Needle 1 to sts on Needle 2.

FINISHING Weave in ends. Embroidery Using photos as guides, work spider web embroidery on foot and on stockinette st section of leg. Note: It is important to use a blunt tip needle for spider web stitch -- a pointed needle is difficult to use because it will pierce the thread you are weaving on. You can also use the back end of a sharp pointed needle to weave. Step 1: Build the base for the spider web You must have an odd number of spokes in order for the weaving to work -- 5, 7 or 9 work well. Bring yarn up in the center of the circle (A), and make a stitch from B to A. Continue in the same way to make stitches all the way around the outside of the circle to the center (from C to A, D to A, etc.) Step 2: Begin Weaving Come up in the center of the spokes. Step 3: Fill in the spokes Weave over and under every other spoke, spiraling outward until the entire shape is filled. Pack the stitches down as the spokes fill up to create a filled-in weaving. As you weave and pack down the yarn, the spokes disappear under the weaving. End by drawing the yarn through to the back side under a spoke and finish off. If you are a knitter who hasn't ever done embroidery before, never fear! It is easy -- especially when you are using wool which fills in nicely and covers up mistakes. When you first start the spider webs, they won't look like much. Keep weaving around the base spokes and fill them solidly. The spider webs will become puffy and slightly sculptural. CORD The cord can be either knitted or crocheted. Crocheted Method: Using 1 strand each of A and C held together, work a crochet chain approx. 30 inches long. Make a second tie in the same way. Knitted Method: Using 1 strand each of A and C held together, CO 60 sts, then BO all sts. Make a second tie in the same way. Using photos as guides, thread ties through eyelets. Using pompom maker, make 4 pompoms. Attach to ends of ties. Using desired color and whip stitch, sew slipper feet into suede slipper bottoms. Source:knitty.com If you like handmade, knit and crochet  creations please visit my shop

Knit Slouchy Pale Pink Beanie Winter Beret

This slouchy hand knit pink beret is so soft and it keeps your head warm in winter and autumn days! Available in my Etsy shop

Mustard Yellow Knit Fingerless Mittens

These mustard yellow fingerless flowered mittens are hand knitted with special love and care. 

Crocheted flowers are stitched on mittens. Available in my Etsy shop

Cream Ivory Slouchy Knitted Hat, Slouch Beanie Unisex

This cream ivory slouchy hat warm you up in fall / winter season, available in my Etsy shop

Monday Moodboard- Winter Fashion

Today it's really cold outside, have nice week:))

1)ThongbaiTatong

2)Aldonasuneviciene

3)Kraplap

4)TheBroochBoutique

For more Monday Mood Boards by EST members please Staroftheeast blog!

Free Knit Pattern, Winter Shrug

This cozy shrug is fabulous!
Thanks to Asley Adams for this pattern.

SIZE

XS/S [M/L, 1X/2X, 3X/4X] (shown in size XS/S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 32[40, 48, 56] inches Length (from back neck): 17.5[18.5, 19.5, 20.5] inches

MATERIALS

Artfibers Triple Cheesecake [30% silk/70% Extrafine Merino Wool; 52 yards/47.5m per 100g cone (available in multiple cone sizes)]; color # 4; 700[950, 1200, 1500]g Note: For those who wish to us a contrast color for the collar and sleeves, the required yarn amounts are as follows: MC: 600[800, 1000, 1250]g CC: 200[300, 350, 450]g Recommended needle size:  1 set US #11/8.0mm straight or circular needles  1 set US #13/9.0mm straight or circular needles [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]  Stitch holders  Safety pins  Crochet hook, close in size to US #15/9mm (exact size is not important)  Tapestry needle  Button

GAUGE

9.5 sts/14 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st after blocking, using larger needles 10.5 sts/16 rows = 4 inches in Seed Stitch after blocking, using smaller needles

Short row tips: Knitting wraps together with sts: Insert right needle under wrap as if to k, then into wrapped st; k wrap together with st. Purling wraps together with sts: Insert right needle into wrapped st, then under wrap as if to p; p wrap together with st. Selvedge Stitches:  When instructed to work selvedge sts, work them as follows: On RS rows: Sl first st purlwise. K last st. On WS rows: Sl first st knitwise. P last st. This will create one ‘selvedge knot’ for every two rows along the edge of work, which will help with with seaming and picking up sts. Seed Stitch (Worked over an even number of sts): Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to end. Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to end. Repeat these 2 rows for Seed Stitch. Ssp: Slip next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Slip them both, purlwise, back to left needle. Purl them together through their back loops.

DIRECTIONS

BACK Using larger needles, CO 36[46, 54, 64] sts. Working selvedge sts as directed in Pattern Notes, work 4[6, 4, 4] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row. Note: Continue working selvedge sts as set until otherwise directed. *Increase Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k1, m1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2. Work 5 rows in stockinette st. Work Increase Row 1. Work 3[3, 5, 5] rows in stockinette st.* Repeat from * 3 times more, then work Increase Row once more. 54[64, 72, 82] sts. Work 5[7, 5, 7] rows in stockinette st, ending with a WS row. 50[54, 58, 60] rows have been worked; work measures approx. 14.5[15.75, 16.75, 17.25] inches. Work Increase Row 1. P 1 row. Increase Row 2 [RS]: Sl 1, [k1, m1] twice, k to last 3 sts, m1, k, m1, k2. 60[70, 78, 88] sts. P 1 row. [Work Increase Row 1. P 1 row] twice. 64[74, 82, 92] sts. Work Increase Row 2.68[78, 86, 96] sts. P 1 row. 60[64, 68, 70] rows have been worked; work measures approx. 17.5[18.5, 19.5, 20.5] inches. LEFT FRONT Next Row [RS]: Sl1, k1, m1, k20[23, 26, 30], place 23[26, 29, 33] sts just worked on st holder for right front; k next 24[28, 30, 32] sts and place them on a second st holder for back neck; k to last 2 sts, m1, k2. 23[26, 29, 33] sts. P 1 row; CO 1 st at end of this row. 24[27, 30, 34] sts. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2. Work 1[3, 1, 3] rows in stockinette st. **Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 3 sts, m1, k1, m1, k2. Work 1[1, 3, 3] rows in stockinette st. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 2 sts, m1, k2. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows once more.** Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more. 41[44, 47, 51] sts. Work 0[2, 0, 2] rows in stockinette st. 88[96, 104, 110] rows have been worked; work measures approx. 25.5[28, 30, 32] inches. Shape Lower Edge: Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 4 sts, [k2tog] twice. Slipped selvedge sts will no longer be  worked at side edge. 39[42, 45, 49] sts. Row 2 [WS]: BO 1 st, p to end. 38[41, 44, 48] sts. Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 37[40, 43, 47] sts. Row 4 [WS]: BO 2 sts, p to end. 35[38, 41, 45] sts. Row 5 [RS]: Work as for Row 3. 34[37, 40, 44] sts. Row 6 [WS]: BO 3 sts, p to end. 31[34, 37, 41] sts. Row 7 [RS]: Work as for Row 3. BO remaining 30[33, 36, 40] sts. RIGHT FRONT Place  23[26, 29, 33] held sts of right front on needles with WS facing and rejoin yarn at neckline edge. CO 1 st and p to end. 24[27, 30, 34] sts. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k1, m1, k to end. Work 1[3, 1, 3] rows in stockinette st. **Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, [k1, m1] twice, k to end. Work 1[1, 3, 3] sts in stockinette st. Next Row [RS]: Sl 1, k1, m1, k to end. P 1 row. Repeat these 2 rows once more.** Repeat from ** to ** 3 times more. 41[44, 47, 51] sts. Work 0[2, 0, 2] rows in stockinette st. 88[96, 104, 110] rows have been worked; work measures approx. 25.5[28, 30, 32] inches. Shape Lower Edge: Row 1 [RS]: BO 2 sts, k to end. Slipped selvedge sts will no longer be  worked at side edge. 39[42, 45, 49] sts. Row 2 [WS]: Sl 1, p to last 2 sts, ssp. 38[41, 44, 48] sts. Row 3 [RS]: BO 2 sts, k to end. 36[39, 42, 46] sts. Row 4 [WS]: Work as for Row 2. 35[38, 41, 45] sts. Row 5 [RS]: BO 3 sts. 32[35, 38, 42] sts. Row 6 [WS]: Work as for Row 2. BO remaining 31[34, 37, 41] sts. SLEEVES The selvedge sts will have created knots along the side edges of the garment, each knot representing 2 rows of work. Count 6[7, 7, 8] knots in from each end of one side edge, and use a safety pin to mark these knots. There will be 32[34, 38, 39] knots between marked knots. With WS facing, using larger needles and beginning with knot next to marked knot, pick up and k 47[52, 56, 59] sts along edge between pins; this will be approx. 3 sts for every 4 rows. Row 1 [RS]: K all sts. Row 2 [WS]: P all sts. Row 3 [RS]: K to last 4 sts, W&T. Row 4 [WS]: P to last 4 sts, W&T. Row 5 [RS]: K to last 8 sts, W&T. Row 6 [WS]: P to last 8 sts, W&T. Row 7 [RS]: K to last 12 sts, W&T. Row 8 [WS]: P to last 12 sts, W&T. Row 9 [RS]: K to last 16 sts, W&T. Row 10 [WS]: P to last 16 sts, W&T. Row 11 [RS]: K to end, working wraps together with wrapped sts. Row 12 [WS]: P all sts, working wraps together with wrapped sts. Row 13 [RS]: K all sts. Fold sleeve in half towards RS, forming a sleeve ‘roll’ with WS facing. Use crochet hook to pull each live st, one at a time, through from RS to WS, pulling each st through selvedge in the same space in which it was originally picked-up. Being careful not to drop, place each st on smaller needle as it is pulled through. When all sts have been pulled through to WS and sleeve ‘roll’ has been closed, use larger needle to BO all sts. COLLAR Using smaller needle with WS facing, pick up and k 1 st in each knot along vertical neckline edge; place held sts of neckline on needle and p these sts; pick up and k 1 st in each knot along remaining vertical neckline edge (be sure you have picked up the same number of sts as along the first vertical edge). Approx. 84[92, 98, 102] sts. Note: Don't worry if you get a different number of sts. The important thing is to pick them up as directed. Work 4 rows in Seed Stitch. Buttonhole Row 1 [RS]: Work 3 sts in pattern, BO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. Buttonhole Row 2 [WS]: Work in pattern to bound-off sts, CO 2 sts, work in pattern to end. Work 6 rows in Seed Stitch. BO all sts knitwise with WS facing.

FINISHING

Block garment to measurements shown in schematic. Sew side edges together below sleeves, as shown in schematic. Weave in ends. Try on garment to determine best button placement, and sew on button.

Source:knitty.com


If you like handmade, knit and crochet  creations please visit my shop